Many people are born, raised, educated, and work in Nairobi but have never set foot in Dandora, let alone the Dandora dumpsite. To give you some background from publicly available information, Dandora was once notorious for crime, often referred to as a den of thieves. That was in the past; things have changed significantly since then. Today, Dandora is also known for hosting one of the largest dumpsites in East and Central Africa—a vast area filled with waste.

I recently took a few colleagues on a trip, including representatives from Witness.org led by Nkem Agunwa, Senior Program Manager, and Mwara Gichanga, Project Coordinator for Africa. Our first meeting point was the Total petrol station in Dandora Phase One. From there, we boarded motorbikes, locally known as boda bodas, to meet our security personnel and guide in the Korogocho slums. This area is home to many waste pickers, or scavengers. As we approached the site, the air changed noticeably—the heavy, unpleasant odor hit our noses, causing sneezing and itching. Before us loomed towering piles of waste, some as tall as a ten-story building. The massive heaps made navigating the area feel like a strenuous hiking challenge.

Questions poured in, filled with awe and disbelief at how humans could survive in such harsh conditions. This clearly highlights the incredible lengths people will go to in order to survive. Individuals of all ages—children, young adults, middle-aged, and elderly—stand wide-eyed, eagerly awaiting the next truck, hoping to find valuable waste. Engaging with them reveals their stories and a deep respect for their life choices. They feel abandoned by the system. To your surprise, not all scavengers are illiterate; some have received quality education, but unemployment remains an issue the system has yet to address. Despite these challenges, they are happy and content. Where others see waste, they see opportunities to transform their lives through recycling. They play a vital role in protecting the environment and are the driving force behind recycling efforts.

from left Lebulele[kibanda project], Mwara Gichanga[witness.org], Olwa[kibanda project], Nkema Agunwa[witness.org], Jecinta[kibanda project]

We didn’t have time to explore the entire dumpsite because we arrived late, and it becomes risky as darkness falls. Before we left, I want to share that one of our main projects uses art to create social impact. We support talented kids by connecting them with mentors and potential sponsors to help them develop their artistic skills. I had the opportunity to take my friend to meet some of the kids we work with—impressive dancers, I must say. A lot of creative work happens at the dumpsite; content creators of all kinds film videos there because the background offers a unique aesthetic. Some of the kids in our arts programs also use this space to record their videos. Dandora is not just a dumpsite; it’s also a safe space for producing creative content.

KIBANDA PROJECT